Engine Oils : What rating? Which brand? For which Engine?
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Engine Oils : What rating? Which brand? For which Engine?
An old favourite, which do you use and why?
Was: 1994 Rover 220 Coupe Turbo
Now: 2010 SEAT Leon Cupra
Now: 2010 SEAT Leon Cupra
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metro_mike
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Only problem is getting hold of the stuff
Good point Si, where DO you get Millers from?
Can't seem to find it locally (Wolverhampton)
Paul
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Neill
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I can get millers now from a shop 5 miles away from me. Currently running 5W-50 in mine after the H/G change and full oil flush. Seems to run really smooth and doesn't tap in the slightest even when cold.
My millers cost me £24.75 for 5 litres.
Neill
My millers cost me £24.75 for 5 litres.
Neill
220 GTI TURBO - gone but never forgotten. 
New Project Arrived
New Project Arrived
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Chris220SDi
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I use Castrol GTD Magnatec (10w40) on my little L series, works a treat, I tend to do an oil change about every 5k rather than the specified 6k, and you can tell as soon as you change it, the engine is much smoother.
From a noise perspective too, you all know how noisey a diesel engine is, and imp the L series is one of the quietist even compared to the modern VAG common rail ones (lets forget BMW and Merc for the moment tho - different league), and after 5k, it only gets slightly noisier, but its stil quieter than next doors Passat TDi.
Me likes Castrol and I'm sure if I was a petrol user I'd be just as happy
From a noise perspective too, you all know how noisey a diesel engine is, and imp the L series is one of the quietist even compared to the modern VAG common rail ones (lets forget BMW and Merc for the moment tho - different league), and after 5k, it only gets slightly noisier, but its stil quieter than next doors Passat TDi.
Me likes Castrol and I'm sure if I was a petrol user I'd be just as happy

wheelerch wrote:I use the cheap stuff from the local car parts place - £6.99 for 5 litres of 10/40, cant complain... I've tryed GTX magnatec etc and it dosent seem that much better...
Do you have a perspex engine
Only joking mate, but seriously how would you know Magantec is not much better without stripping the engine down after a years worth of driving?
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SCOOTERMAN
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Chris220SDi
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Gary wrote:wheelerch wrote:I use the cheap stuff from the local car parts place - £6.99 for 5 litres of 10/40, cant complain... I've tryed GTX magnatec etc and it dosent seem that much better...
Do you have a perspex engine![]()
Only joking mate, but seriously how would you know Magantec is not much better without stripping the engine down after a years worth of driving?
I suppose you could flush the engine and some how weigh the amount of worn metal fragments in the oil
Nah, but Gary as a good point and tbh I feel safer with magnatec, especially as the one I use is fully synthetic.
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Damian_Bailey
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I have a 1.4 16v MPI K-Series. The engine loves to rev and I'm happy to oblige all the way to the redline.
The best I've found so far is Castrol RS fully synthetic 10w40 - keeps it nice and smooth even at the top end of the scale. Gives me peace of mind too.
I always use engine flush and change at least every 6 months or when I notice the oil getting dirty.
P.S. I always keep it under 3,000 revs untils it's warmed up. Bit of a pain as it limits me to 60mph.
The best I've found so far is Castrol RS fully synthetic 10w40 - keeps it nice and smooth even at the top end of the scale. Gives me peace of mind too.
I always use engine flush and change at least every 6 months or when I notice the oil getting dirty.
P.S. I always keep it under 3,000 revs untils it's warmed up. Bit of a pain as it limits me to 60mph.
'96 200 coupe 1.6 K-Series
I use Vauxhalls own 10/40 semi synth and change it every 3000 miles, it meets or exceeds most specs and I can get it nice and cheap
No probs so far - and the engine has come apart a couple of times to be checked out and headgaskets replaced
- after the last one I checked the bottom end to renew bearings if there waany sign of wear - but there wasnt
Looks like new in there despite boost hitting 19psi on quite a few occasions!
Mark
No probs so far - and the engine has come apart a couple of times to be checked out and headgaskets replaced
- after the last one I checked the bottom end to renew bearings if there waany sign of wear - but there wasnt
Looks like new in there despite boost hitting 19psi on quite a few occasions!
Mark

The only replacement for displacement .................is technology !!
1993 216 turbo cabriolet - going soon
1987 Merc 190 3.2 twin turbo
1992 B20 CRX - nasp
1993 Mercedes 300SL
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andy_notts
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rover400turbo
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10/60W oil is a 'high stress' oil, it will ensure the bearings last as long as possible, but as was said it is over kill on a non-turbo'ed car and 'normal' boost.
Also it is very expensive and being that bit thicker when cold, it requires more changes to help small oil ways from clocking up.
Demon Tweeks can supply, but about £40 a gallon !!
I found that the K series has excessive tappet noise on cold start up, using Magetex 10/40W solved that one.
Also it is very expensive and being that bit thicker when cold, it requires more changes to help small oil ways from clocking up.
Demon Tweeks can supply, but about £40 a gallon !!
I found that the K series has excessive tappet noise on cold start up, using Magetex 10/40W solved that one.
No Longer a Rover Owner !
Used Valvoline (Max life?? ) stuff 10w/40 for my oil change at the weekend, did wonders, used to sound almost diesel like on a cold start up, much quieter now. Apparently worked wonders on FTO's with tappet noise as well, so we used it. Along with all the other mini-service stuff the car feels noticably better, should have done this the week I bought the car really. Witnesses say the small puffs on flat out change ups arent as prominent now either, turbo air seals leaking a bit no doubt. That said, I have no idea what oil was in it to start with. The fact the oil filter it had on wasnt the fatter one for the Turbo wasn't a good sign though I guess, lol.
So, I reckon I'll be using the valvoline for a while by the look of it. As was said 10w/40 should be fien for a low(ish) mileage engine (57,000) and only 12-13Psi boost, I hope, lol.
So, I reckon I'll be using the valvoline for a while by the look of it. As was said 10w/40 should be fien for a low(ish) mileage engine (57,000) and only 12-13Psi boost, I hope, lol.
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rover400turbo
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I have heard a few people say that you should only use fully synthetic oils with turbo engines. Does this not apply with the T series then?
BTW - I am using GTX Magnatec 10W 40 at the moment.
Wayne
BTW - I am using GTX Magnatec 10W 40 at the moment.
Wayne
Currently Own:
1999 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Tommi Makinen Edition - Scotia White
2006 Skoda Fabia vRS - Black Magic Pearl
Previously Owned:
1998 Rover 620ti - British Racing Green
1997 Rover 620ti - Flame Red
1999 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Tommi Makinen Edition - Scotia White
2006 Skoda Fabia vRS - Black Magic Pearl
Previously Owned:
1998 Rover 620ti - British Racing Green
1997 Rover 620ti - Flame Red
WayneH wrote:I have heard a few people say that you should only use fully synthetic oils with turbo engines. Does this not apply with the T series then?
By all means, use a fully synthetic if you don't mind paying the extra for it. But Mobil 1 0/40 is too thin.
WayneH wrote:BTW - I am using GTX Magnatec 10W 40 at the moment.
My local garage changes my oil with 10/40 SemiSynth (Or Mineral if I pay less, or Fully-Synth if I pay more
) - can't remember what brand. I keep a bottle of 10/40 Magnatec in the garage for topping-up, but my TI's not used a single drop in the 8 months I've owned it 
xr4x4 wrote:Why is mobil 1 too thin?
Surely the 0 means that it doesnt change it viscosity when cold.
I.E ideal for cold starts.
Yes, but it also means it's just as thin when cold, as when hot. On anything other than a brand new engine, you can sometimes find that it slowly seeps through various seals and stuff, when you leave it overnight. You don't have this problem with a 10/40 because it thickens slightly when it cools down. Basically, the 0/40 is thin enough when cold, that it can get to places it shouldn't. IIRC, this is something to do with the effectiveness of the cold seals - don't they seal better as they warm up ?
The more worn your engine is, the bigger the problem. If you get a 100,000 mile engine, that's been run on 10/40 all it's life, and then suddenly you switch it to 0/40, you're likely to have oil running out eveywhere
Hopefully someone else can post a more detailed explanation - it's ages since I've read about this stuff

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Dom
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I've got a 120K M-series NASP -
Have always used 15-40......
What do people think - stay using it, or would it be better to use the 10-40?
What will be the difference between the 2 in amounts of wear - on the assumption I wait at least 10 mins driving every day before ragging it....?
Dom
(who knows nothing about oils)
Have always used 15-40......
What do people think - stay using it, or would it be better to use the 10-40?
What will be the difference between the 2 in amounts of wear - on the assumption I wait at least 10 mins driving every day before ragging it....?
Dom
(who knows nothing about oils)

Modified Rover Tomcat
Modified TVR Chimaera 450
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MGJohn
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I recently started using Unipart Premium 10-40 Fully Synthetic in my O and T series Turbos. Get it from my local MG-R dealership. Very pleased with the results considering I get 5 litres of this stuff for approximately half the price for 4 litres of Mobil 1 from Halfords.
With the Unipart Premium fully synthetic, I REALLY noticed an immediate difference in both my turbo engine types running from both performance and noise viewpoints. Such a markedly noticeable difference in my experience with cars is rare!! Usually I can't detect any difference. So I'll continue to use the stuff. I did get it at a little discount but the latest batch they have in has gone up in price. Still only about 60% of the price for Mobil 1 though.
I know that at least two of the contributors on this BBS also use and have recommended the Unipart Synthetic Oils for there ARG and Rover Turbos.....
With the Unipart Premium fully synthetic, I REALLY noticed an immediate difference in both my turbo engine types running from both performance and noise viewpoints. Such a markedly noticeable difference in my experience with cars is rare!! Usually I can't detect any difference. So I'll continue to use the stuff. I did get it at a little discount but the latest batch they have in has gone up in price. Still only about 60% of the price for Mobil 1 though.
I know that at least two of the contributors on this BBS also use and have recommended the Unipart Synthetic Oils for there ARG and Rover Turbos.....





