First off, set of 4 Pauter rods as supplied by GBE. These are his full spec ones and currently cost £754 to buy new. Before you get too excited, they were in an engine that suffered big-end bearing failure (suspected dodgy crank) and as such are not perfect. IIRC, the one fitted to No.3 was the worst and got pretty hot as a result. On the plus side, the shells looked to have taken all the abuse and left the rods virtually untouched. Infact 1 & 4 look great, No. 2 has some discolouring but not as bad as No. 3
Anyway, all 4:

The rods aren't numbered as to which bores they were in, I'm relying on my memory here. The caps are matched to the rods though and the bolts are in the same threads they were using before.
So, this is either 1 or 4, one of the better ones anyway:
Small end:

Big end:

This is the other good one, so again either from 1 or 4:
Small end:

Big end:

Number 2 small end:

Big end:

Number 3 small end:

Big end:

Another shot of number 3 big end, to show discolouring:

Same with number 2, not as bad as number 3:

As you can see there is some surface rust where they've been sat around, this will come off with a bit of elbow grease. If I get bored I might even do it myself. They're actually in better condition than I remember, they've been sat in a box for well over a year and I haven't touched them! They are not from my car, but are from an engine that I built.
Moving on, pistons from my car, in order No 1 to No 4 showing each side of piston and pin:
















I have centre dotted the underside of each piston to identify which bores they came from as the rings are matched to the block. I've cleaned them up a bit as you can see. You may be able to make out in the pics that the pins have some lines around the circumference of them, about a quarter of the way in from each end. I suspect this is the unwanted movement they had that has caused this. They still fit the pistons OK, a couple are a bit tighter going through but once they're in the correct place in the piston, they turn freely. They've done 20k+ miles well enough, but can be replaced individually if preferred. I've removed all the clips (yep, all 8 of them

The block was originally a Vitesse unit, but has had the sump holes drilled & tapped to M8, and the cambelt end mounting holes drilled and tapped to M10 for installation in the ZS. So it is essentially now a 620ti block. The head face was given a light skim to ensure it was flat. Pic from below and above, followed by bores 1 to 4, 2 angles of each:










Also have a flowed cylinder head, fitted with Piper 270 cams. Something which was replaced along the way to try and eliminate the rattling noise, without success. So I had another head flowed and it's own cams reprofiled by Piper as they were known good items. As this move didn't cure the noise, I can vouch for these here also being good items!



For some reason only the inlet cam has BP270 stamped into it, the other just has the standard rover part number. However, I bought them 2nd hand to begin with and they came with verniers (now on my engine so not available here) so I have no reason to think that only 1 is a 270.
Other things I have which will help make an engine:
620ti sump & pickup, they need a damn good clean, bought them incase I ever did decide to put this lot together myself.
NASP crank. Known good and untouched (not reground) and came from the NASP block which is now in my car. I don't have it here, it's at my dad's house but is there for the taking.
Water pump housing, non A/C. Water pump has done the same 20k miles that the pistons & block have done. PAS pump also available if need be as is the aux belt.
Oil pump. I have an oil-cooler and non-oil cooler one here. They are of unknown age and mileage and are just parts I've acquired over the years. I opened them both up and the non cooler one looks the better of the 2. Upto the buyer which ONE they take, if either, I'll want to keep one as a spare.
Flywheel. Have a 2 gap and 4 gap, the 2 gap has been skimmed so looks pretty new and is here with me. The 4 gap is at my dad's and IIRC is from the Vitesse that the block originated from.
Manifolds. I have an inlet manifold here, but robbed the injectors for the Mini. I'm pretty sure there's a complete manifold at my dad's along with a standard turbo exhaust manifold.
Things you'll need that aren't included (only because I don't have them!)
Turbo, gaskets, main & big end bearings & thrust washers, cambelt, vernier pullies (can supply a pair of standard ones but you'll really need verniers to make the most of the pipers). Adapter plate, I don't think I have one and if I do, it'll be an 820 one (different to the 220/420/620). Head bolts/studs, though I will chuck in a pair of the plastic locating dowels
Price; I'd like £1000 for EVERYTHING listed above. I will consider splitting it but ideally I'd like to sell the whole lot as a "kit" as there's no point in me keeping one single component if all the rest get sold. Yes, I have kept all the best stuff for myself (who wouldn't?!) and am now selling my unwanted parts. The rods and oil pumps are the only parts not "tested" by myself, but I do know the history of the rods due to building the engine, and subsequently stripping it down again 1000 miles later to see the state of the big end bearings
I'm also aware it's a lot of money to spend, but compared to the price of these parts new, it ain't bad. I've also spent a lot of my own time and money chasing what turned out to be a simple fix, replacing one component at a time. I'd like to get some of that money back now
Lastly, I'm in Didcot, Oxfordshire and offering collection only. My dad lives in Hinckley, Leicestershire, so it'll take some careful logistical planning for the buyer to end up with all the parts, but it can be done
From the original "Forged piston rattle" thread, I had 4 people contact me to express interest in the following order:
Cableguy
ttrw_2
Rizzy
Hayleyb
I told them I'd get the for sale thread up ASAP, so here it is!

